Coco Chanel's enduring legacy extends far beyond the iconic tweed suits and No. 5 perfume. Her discerning eye for beauty, her passion for collecting, and her unparalleled ability to transform the mundane into the extraordinary are all evident in the striking presence of Coromandel screens throughout her life and work. These magnificent lacquered screens, originating from 17th and 18th-century China, became integral to her personal aesthetic and profoundly influenced her design philosophy. The recent arrival of the Paris-Shanghai collection, traveling first from the Métiers d'Art fashion show in Paris to Shanghai last December, serves as a poignant reminder of Chanel's enduring fascination with the East and the powerful symbolism of the Coromandel screen.
Coco Chanel and Chinese Screens: A Passion for the Exotic
Mademoiselle Chanel, as she was affectionately known, wasn't merely a collector; she was a curator of her own personal mythology. Her apartment at 31 Rue Cambon, the heart of her empire, became a testament to her eclectic tastes, a carefully constructed environment reflecting her unique vision. Central to this carefully crafted ambiance were the Coromandel screens. They weren't simply decorative elements; they were architectural features, shaping the space, creating intimate nooks, and acting as backdrops to her legendary collections. They were, in essence, extensions of her personality, reflecting her appreciation for the exotic, the luxurious, and the subtly mysterious.
Chanel's fascination with Chinese art and culture wasn't arbitrary. It was a conscious choice, a deliberate incorporation of Eastern aesthetics into her distinctly Western designs. The allure of the Coromandel screens lay not only in their beauty but also in their history and the aura of mystery they possessed. These screens, painstakingly crafted over centuries, whispered tales of distant lands and sophisticated craftsmanship, qualities that resonated deeply with Chanel's own creative spirit. They embodied a sense of history, a weight of tradition that she subtly incorporated into her modern, forward-thinking designs.
The screens themselves are more than just decorative panels; they are works of art. Each screen, a masterpiece of Coromandel lacquer, tells a story through its intricate scenes and vibrant colours. The rich, lustrous surface, achieved through layers upon layers of painstakingly applied lacquer, speaks to the dedication and skill of the artisans who created them. These were not mass-produced items; they were objects of considerable value, reflecting the discerning taste and affluence of their owner. For Chanel, they were more than just valuable possessions; they were integral components of her creative process.
The Coromandel Screens: A Symbol of Luxury and Refinement
The term "Coromandel screen" is often used loosely to describe lacquered screens from East Asia, but it primarily refers to screens originating from the Coromandel Coast of India, a region that served as a major trading hub between Europe and the East. These screens, often made of wood panels covered in numerous layers of lacquer, were decorated with intricate scenes depicting landscapes, figures, and mythical creatures. The vibrant colours, the delicate brushstrokes, and the sheer artistry involved in their creation make them highly sought-after collectibles to this day.
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